“In the world of food, it’s quinoa and za’atari v. sugar-in-everything, and is it line-caught v. can I afford fish, and organic chickens v. scarily cheap chickens, and has Jamie O betrayed his roots, and oh dear, why are poor people so fat, or rather obese, fat sounds a bit, er, uncaring. Can we eat healthily and ethically but cheaply? Actually, the great (if irritating) man, in his heroic school dinners crusade, proved, to my satisfaction at least, that we can. And he got the children cooking, wonderful. But how much do we want to, either eat healthily or indeed cook? Why not obey those daft ads that say ‘Just Eat’, go to the kebab shop and have done with it? Do poor people even have stoves? The debate rages. Meanwhile in Dartmouth Park, where we used to live, in North London za’atari heartland, everyone’s given up everything, from caffeine to alcohol and beyond, and is existing on a diet of massaged kale and early-morning runs. Do they even need their stoves?”
~ Orlando Gough, “Cook Cheaply, Cook Intelligently and Cook Well,” Toast Travels. Link here.